Trade-In EstimatorPart-Exchange Estimator

Get a ballpark for your Tesla three ways — part-exchanging it with Tesla or a dealer, taking an instant offer from an online car-buying service, or selling it privately. Then see what's left after your finance settlement figure, and what waiting another year might cost.

Get a ballpark for your Tesla three ways — trading it in to a dealer or Tesla, taking an instant online offer, or selling it yourself. Then factor in the sales-tax credit for trading in, what you still owe, and what waiting another year might cost.

Your car
What it sold for new, with options — check your order or window sticker. Trim and options are captured here.What it cost new with options, including VAT — check your order confirmation. Trim and options are captured here.
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Condition
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The car you're buying
Most states tax only the price minus your trade. A handful limit or don't give the credit — e.g. California, Hawaii, Maryland, Virginia and DC; Michigan caps it. Check your state's current rule.
Assumptions
Mileage is compared with a 12,000 mi/yr baseline. Selling costs = listing, detailing, inspection, title fees. Mileage is compared with 10,000 miles a year. Selling costs = online listing, valeting and a vehicle history check.
Dealer / Tesla trade-inDealer part-exchange
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Instant offerOnline instant offer
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Private sale
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Tax saved by trading
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Equity after payoffEquity after settlement
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Estimated value ranges

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How we got there

The cost of waiting

ℹ️

These are estimates, not offers. Real prices swing with local supply, new-car price cuts, colour, wheels, service and accident history and the month you sell. Get two or three real quotes — Tesla's part-exchange valuation, an online car-buying service and a local dealer — before you decide.

ℹ️

These are estimates, not offers. Real prices swing with local supply, new-car price cuts, color, wheels, accident history and the month you sell. Get two or three real quotes — Tesla's trade-in estimate, an instant online offer and a local dealer — before you decide.

How this is calculated

  • Base value = original list price × a typical UK retained-value curve for the model at your car's age (counted from mid-year). It reflects average condition at about 10,000 miles a year. Used EV prices in the UK have fallen faster than in the US, and the curve reflects that.
  • Mileage: each mile above or below 10,000 a year moves the value by the rate you set (≈ 8–12p is typical), capped at ±30%.
  • Condition: excellent +5%, good 0%, fair −10%, rough −22%. Local demand: strong +4%, weak −5%. Battery health (optional) is compared with a typical figure for the car's age, ±1.2% of value per point.
  • Channels: private sale ≈ 95–104% of that market value; online car-buying services ≈ 85–93% (often less after inspection); dealer part-exchange ≈ 80–88%. Buyers who resell need a margin, which is why part-exchange comes in lowest.
  • Equity = part-exchange mid estimate − your finance settlement figure. There's no VAT or tax saving from part-exchanging in the UK, so it's a straight comparison of money in your pocket.
Is a private sale always worth it?
It usually brings the most money, but subtract listing and valeting costs and your time — and you'll handle viewings, test drives, payment safety and settling any finance yourself (a car with outstanding finance can't be sold until it's settled). When the gap is a few hundred pounds, part-exchanging is often the better deal.
What if I owe more than it's worth?
That's negative equity. A dealer can add it to your next PCP or HP agreement, but you'll pay interest on it. On PCP or HP you may be able to hand the car back under voluntary termination once you've paid half of the total amount payable. See the car finance tool to model it.
Does FSD add value on a used Tesla?
A little, sometimes. Purchased FSD normally stays with the car, but UK used buyers rarely pay much for it — partly because fewer features are enabled here — and many part-exchange quotes ignore it.

Estimates only — not a valuation or an offer. Not affiliated with Tesla or any car-buying service.

  • Base value = original price × a typical retained-value curve for the model family at your car's age (counted from mid-model-year). It reflects average condition at about 12,000 miles a year.
  • Mileage: each mile above or below 12,000 per year moves the value by the rate you set (≈ $0.10–$0.15 is typical), capped at ±30%.
  • Condition: excellent +5%, good 0%, fair −10%, rough −22%. Local demand: strong +4%, weak −5%. Battery health (optional) is compared with a typical figure for the car's age, ±1.2% of value per point.
  • Channels: private sale ≈ 95–104% of that market value; instant online offers ≈ 85–93%; dealer or Tesla trade-in ≈ 80–88%. Buyers who resell need a margin, which is why trade-ins come in lowest.
  • Tax credit: in states that credit trade-ins, you pay sales tax only on the new price minus the trade — so the trade-in is worth its value plus tax rate × that value.
Is a private sale always worth it?
Often it brings the most money, but subtract the tax credit you give up, selling costs and your time — and you'll handle payoff paperwork, test drives and payment safety yourself. When the gap is under a few hundred dollars, trading in is usually the better deal.
What if I owe more than it's worth?
That's negative equity. A dealer can roll it into your new loan, but you'll pay interest on it. Paying it down first, or keeping the car longer, usually costs less. See the Loan & Financing tool to model it.
Does FSD add value on a used Tesla?
A little, sometimes. Purchased FSD normally stays with the car when it's sold, but used buyers rarely pay anywhere near the original price for it — and some trade-in quotes ignore it. If Tesla offers a transfer to your next car, compare that with the resale bump.

Estimates only — not an appraisal or an offer. Not affiliated with Tesla, Carvana or CarMax.